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An Island Like No Other
Travel to Sardinia
In the heart of the Mediterranean Sea is Sardinia, a once-remote island
that is quickly becoming a preferred destination for jet-setters and glitterati.
This newfound popularity has been a long time coming: The new “it”
vacation spot is actually one of the oldest inhabited islands in the world.
In fact, people have been discovering the charms of Sardinia since the
ancient Phoenicians began landing on the island’s shores around
1000 B.C.
Porto
Cervo, Costa Smeralda in Sardinia, Italy |
Writer D.H. Lawrence once described Sardinia as “a
land like no other” and it is, by all accounts, unique. For one
thing, the island is something of an open-air museum, with some 7,000
architectural structures from the Neolithic period called Nuraghe dotting
the countryside. Something of an enigma, these curious circular stone
formations are unlike any other ruins in the world.
For another, the landscape of the island itself is extraordinarily
varied. Sardinia’s high, rocky coastline is marked by dramatic cliffs,
coves, and grottos that beg to be explored, while the glorious beaches
and crystal-clear waters are perfect for reef-diving, water skiing, sunbathing,
and of course, yachting. The Costa Smeralda on the northeast end of the
island has been long known as one of Europe’s most expensive and
exclusive resort areas. Developed years ago by the globetrotting billionaire
Prince Aga Khan—who the paparazzi still occasionally snap sailing
these waters with one royal or another—the area offers a remarkably
high concentration of marinas catering to wealthy Italians and Europe’s
society set.
Well-heeled or not, be sure to head to the charming walled
and fortified port city of Alghero, which dates back to the 11th century.
Alghero spent hundreds of years under Spanish domination and was once
actually known as “Little Barcelona.” The official language
spoken on the piazzas and narrow, cobbled walkways here remains Catalan
and a strong Spanish influence is still evident in the architecture and
on the menus of many restaurants. Stroll the promenade just outside the
city’s old walls to breathe in the sea air and watch the working
fishing boats jostle for position with pleasure cruisers in the harbor.
Cruising
the waters off Sardinia |
The interior of this island paradise, meanwhile, is home
to dense forests and granite peaks, and a traditional lifestyle that some
believe may actually hold the key to longevity. Demographic studies of
the isolated mountain villages in central Sardinia have found that centenarians
abound here, and men in the region tend to live as long as women. Some
chalk this anomaly up to the largely organic diet consumed by the natives,
which generally includes a glass of red wine daily. Others suggest it’s
the arduous, physically active days spent farming, sheep herding, and
stomping the Cannaonau grapes that eventually make that glass of wine.
Whatever the case, it’s not unusual for four and five generations
to gather around the dining table at family gatherings here.
One way to explore the island’s interior is to
board the Trenino Verde (Little Green Train), a vintage steam locomotive
that puffs its way through forests, over bridges, and through tunnels
into some of the island’s most scenic mountain areas.
Festivals abound in the interior, such as L’Ardia
di San Constantino, a wild race that takes place every summer in Sedilo,
in honor of the ancient warrior Santu Antine (San Constantino). A test
of courage and horsemanship, the spectacle attracts the most daring riders
in the village. A galloping horseman is also the centerpiece of the “Sartiglia,”
a spectacular carnival that includes a medieval tournament that takes
place each year in Oristano.
On the southern coast lies Sardinia’s capital,
Cagliari, the largest city on the island and it’s most cultured,
with several museums housing precious artifacts. You’ll find significant
artifacts from the Punic and Roman periods at The National Archaeological
Museum here, along with prehistoric tombs. The National Picture Gallery
features contemporary art and sculpture, while the Cardu Siamese Museum
offers an unusual collection of anatomical waxes by Florentine sculptor
Clemente Susini along with treasures from the East.
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