An American in Venice

Say 'Venice', and one immediately pictures grand Renaissance architecture, the pigeon-filled St., Marks Square and canals plied by colorful gondoliers thanks to the starring role this most romantic of cities has played in feature films over the years. (Rent a copy of Woody Allen’s “Everyone Says I Love You,” “The Talented Mr. Ripley,” “The Italian Job,” or even Orson Welles’ “Othello,” and you’ll see what we mean).

Still, not even Hollywood could do the stunning gothic artwork, historic canals and breathtaking cathedrals here real justice and that’s probably why approximately 10 million people visit Venice every year. In fact, the capital of the province of Venezia and the Veneto region rivals Rome as the number one tourist attraction in all of Italy .

Many come for Carnevale (Mardi Gras) in February, which traditionally begins with a parade in St. Mark’s Square and ushers in two weeks of parties and events. Long associated with extraordinary masks and costumes (in the old days masks were used by gamblers to avoid their creditors, by doctors who hoped for protection from the plague, and by poorer nobleman who begged on the streets of Venice), you’ll still have to plan on wearing a traditional costume in the 18 th century style if you hope to participate in the numerous parties and balls organized by Venetian cafes.

Those who’ve been say all of Venice appears to float at any time of the year, but this is particularly true in the winter months during the acqua alta or flooding. The floods are caused by shifting tides and storms on the Adriatic that begin with water seeping up through the pavement of the Piazza and other low-lying areas, so pack a pair of waterproof boots.

Whenever you visit, you’ll find distances between major sights to be short. The Canal Grande is the main boulevard through the city, and a vaporetto ride through it is a great way to view the city. Water taxis – an economy version of the vaporetto – are also a good way to get around. Gondolas, though romantic, are expensive, and expect to pay even more if you want to be accompanied by a local tenor or accordion player on the trip.

Among the sights not to be missed, the shops on the R ialto Bridge are world renown. Then there’s the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri in Italian), a famed bridge that leads into a prision inside the Doge’s Palace. As for the sighting, Venetians say prisoners taken across the bridge to torturous punishments would often groan bitterly at their fate.

Art lovers will find the entire city to be a veritable jewel box, but do make time for the Gallerie dell’ Accademia, a former church featuring great works from the likes of Titian, Carpaccio and more, as well as the Peggy Gugggenheim collection, which features modern art by Dali, Pollock, Picasso and Mondrian. Guggenheim herself is buried in the sculpture garden.

Of course, no trip would be complete without an exploration of the Basilica di San Marco. In the year 828, inhabitants of the lagoon that is now Venice , stole the body of St. Mark from Alexandria and eventually built a basilica alongside the doge’s castle to accommodate the remains of what would become the city’s patron saint. Laden with sparkling mosaics, the church is a dramatic reminder of Venice ’s Byzantine origins, while the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) represents the best of Venetian Gothic style and architecture

Finally, while in Venice , make time for a side trip to the island of Murano . Glass and crystal working, long a Venetian monopoly, shifted to Murano around the13th century and it’s well worth the trip to check out the exquisite Museo Vetrario (museum) and to observe the glassmakers in action.

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